Gordon Ramsay Hospital Road…STILL KICKS ARSE
The credit crunch, plus general “Gordon is just so 2004” had led me to believe that Ramsey’s flagship fine dining restaurant- perhaps the most legendary in London– would be kinda sucky, full of old Americans and Japanese on tour, and very very out of date. I had thought restaurants had moved on – Robuchon, Hix, Fergus Henderson, Marcus Wareing.
Oh no. The table was for 10pm and the place was rammed when we arrived. Not with boring old duffers sitting in silence and picking at their truffes en cocotte, but with large tables of extremely attractive, youthful, English people with “Sloane Square” written all over them, celebrating and generally partying on.
The sommelier was awesome. He had a little table, a candle for burning the seal off the bottle, and a tray for resting the cork. He also tried the wine (1978 Lafite- don’t ask) before we did. It was like an ancient religious ritual, which it kinda is, I guess, being French and wine-oriented.
The head waiter shook our hands and gave me the menu without prices on it after asking my patron “Are you hosting the table?” How great is that – the little lady doesn’t have to worry about anything so trivial as prices. He also told me that since there was a candy floss machine, I could have as much as I wanted.
The food was excellent and involved lobster in jacket potato consomme, foie gras, pheasant and chestnuts, walnut souffe and silver chocolate balls on a silver tree. It was all so civilised I actually couldn’t imagine where Gordon Ramsay would fit in. www.gordonramsay.com/royalhospitalroad